Skip to content

Request a visit

Tell us what is going on and where. We come back with a time and a number.

Emergency? Call (928) 358-2546. We answer our own phone.

Wiring

Knob-and-Tube Wiring Replacement

The wiring your insurer asks about, removed and replaced.

What the job involves

Knob and tube is not automatically dangerous, but it is ungrounded, it was never designed for the load a modern house puts on it, and insurers increasingly will not write a policy over it.

Here is how the work actually runs. Doing it right means opening more than the one box that is giving trouble. The fault is rarely where the symptom is.

How we handle it

  • Full survey first, because most houses are partially converted already
  • Identify every remaining run, including the ones buried in insulation
  • Replace with grounded circuits and proper device boxes
  • Documentation for the insurer when the work is finished

Doing this in the White Mountains

Elevation and sun are hard on exterior equipment. Meter bases and outdoor gear age faster here than the catalog says.

Elevation, weather, and the age of the housing stock all change how this work goes here compared with a valley city. Equipment ages faster in this sun, monsoon surge is a real load on the system, and a lot of these houses were built as seasonal property and are now carrying full-time demand.

We would rather find the actual fault than sell you a part that might fix it.

Supports, staples, and splices you can still reach

Cable has to be secured within about a foot of a box and then at least every four and a half feet along the run, and the staple has to hold it without crushing it. A staple driven hard enough to flatten the jacket has already damaged the insulation under it, and that is a fault waiting for a wet year or a vibration.

The other rule that gets broken quietly is accessibility. Every splice lives in a box, and every box stays reachable. A splice wrapped in tape and buried in a wall or above a finished ceiling is a fault nobody will ever find, because there is no reason to look there.

We open covers when we are in a house for something else, and buried splices from past work are a regular find. They get put in a box, and the box gets left where the next person can get to it.

What grounding is actually for

Grounding is widely misunderstood as something that drains electricity into the earth. What it really does is give a fault current a low-resistance path back to its source, which is what makes the breaker trip.

Without that path, a fault to the metal case of an appliance does not trip anything. It simply energizes the case and waits for somebody to touch it while standing on a concrete floor. The circuit continues working normally right up until that moment.

This is why ungrounded circuits matter even though everything appears to function. The protection is missing rather than broken, so nothing tells you it is absent.

Two electricians setting gray PVC conduit in an open trench on a high-desert lot, spool of direct-burial cable staged nearby
Knob-and-Tube Wiring Replacement work in the White Mountains, Arizona.

Heat in an attic changes what a conductor can carry

A conductor’s ampacity is rated at an ambient temperature of thirty degrees Celsius, roughly eighty-six Fahrenheit. An attic under a metal or dark shingle roof in July runs far past that, and code applies a correction factor that reduces what the wire may legally carry. Running cable across the top of ceiling insulation, in direct sun through a vent, makes it worse again.

Bundling adds a second reduction. More than three current-carrying conductors in the same raceway or strapped together over a distance and every one of them derates, because they heat each other.

This is why a run that looks correct on gauge alone can still be wrong. Where we have the choice up here we route below the insulation or along framing in cooler air, and where we do not, the conductor gets upsized to absorb the correction.

What you get

  • LicensedC-11 #192532 and R-11 #192533
  • PriceFirm, before the work starts
  • Who shows upThe person who quoted it
  • PermitsHandled where the job needs them
  • AfterLabeled, documented, and cleaned up

Anything that is genuinely urgent gets called urgent. Everything else gets called what it is.

Heat in an attic changes what a conductor can carry

A conductor’s ampacity is rated at an ambient temperature of thirty degrees Celsius, roughly eighty-six Fahrenheit. An attic under a metal or dark shingle roof in July runs far past that, and code applies a correction factor that reduces what the wire may legally carry. Running cable across the top of ceiling insulation, in direct sun through a vent, makes it worse again.

Bundling adds a second reduction. More than three current-carrying conductors in the same raceway or strapped together over a distance and every one of them derates, because they heat each other.

This is why a run that looks correct on gauge alone can still be wrong. Where we have the choice up here we route below the insulation or along framing in cooler air, and where we do not, the conductor gets upsized to absorb the correction.

Fishing, opening, and the honest tradeoff

Every rewire is a negotiation between two costs: the labor to fish a wire through a closed wall, and the labor plus materials to open the wall and patch it afterward. Neither is free and the balance changes room by room.

Where there is attic or basement access above and below, fishing usually wins. Where a run has to cross multiple bays horizontally in a finished wall, opening a channel and patching is often faster and produces a better result than an hour of fighting a fish tape.

We will tell you which one a given run calls for rather than committing to no holes and then quietly making them anyway.

Questions we get

Do you have to open all my walls?

No. We fish where the framing allows and open only where there is no route. Minimizing patching is most of the skill in a rewire.

Does new wiring need an inspection?

Yes, and it gets staged so the rough in is signed off before anything is closed up.

What does grounding actually do?

It gives a fault somewhere to go so the breaker trips, instead of the fault energizing the metal case of an appliance.

Can you come out after hours?

For genuine emergencies, yes. Burning smells, sparking equipment, water in electrical gear, or a hot panel are not next-week problems.

Are you licensed?

Yes. We hold a C-11 commercial license, number 192532, and an R-11 residential license, number 192533. Both are current and we are insured.

Get it handled

Call (928) 358-2546 or send a message and we will work out what the job actually is.

See recent work or send the details and we will come look.